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Q: My motor is not working. Should I replace it?

A: The only way to test a motor to see if it is truly the cause for your motor not work is to remove it from the filter plug it in for few seconds to see if the rotor/impeller turns. If the rotor turns then unplug and plug in again several time to see if the rotor will spin. Do this rapidly 2 or three time so make sure rotor in not the problem. If it spins then you should be looking at a rotor replacement not a motor replacement.

A1: If the rotor will not spin when the motor is plugged in then most likely the motor coil or thermal overload switch is damaged and the motor should be replaced.

A2: Due to the shortage of parts, motors are expensive relative to a new filter. I don't recommend motor replacements if the filter is more than 3 or 4 years old. You can usually pick up a complete new filter for $10-60.00 more than the cost of the motor.

Q: The bracket(s) on the side of the canister that hold the canister clip have broken off. Now my canister won't seal. A: The best solution is to replace the canister. However these are in short supply. So the next best thing you can

Skip to the bottom of this post if you are an old hand at Pond Keeping.  

We have two returning pond filters. The first features a unique design that features all three types of filtration. UV (ultraviolet light) kills pathogens and algae, mechanical filtration which removes particulates hat cloud water and biological filtration which breaks down wastes and converts ammonia into mostly harmless nitrates. 

RO5000PF w/UV

This filter also has a couple of unique features. One is that can be used both in the pond (submersed) or outside the pond as an external pond filter. Secondly, this filter can be used in series to increase capacity. The filtration system mimics the natural biological filtration that occurs in healthy ponds with the added benefit of UV to remove Algae and hidden pathogens that can harm fish.