Q: My motor is not working. Should I replace it?
A: The only way to test a motor to see if it is truly the cause for your motor not work is to remove it from the filter plug it in for few seconds to see if the rotor/impeller turns. If the rotor turns then unplug and plug in again several time to see if the rotor will spin. Do this rapidly 2 or three time so make sure rotor in not the problem. If it spins then you should be looking at a rotor replacement not a motor replacement.
A1: If the rotor will not spin when the motor is plugged in then most likely the motor coil or thermal overload switch is damaged and the motor should be replaced.
A2: Due to the shortage of parts, motors are expensive relative to a new filter. I don't recommend motor replacements if the filter is more than 3 or 4 years old. You can usually pick up a complete new filter for $10-60.00 more than the cost of the motor.
A3: If you have damaged the motor housing in some way for example a broken corner, missing black plug, damaged Orings or the quick disconnect mount (the two prongs that stick up) then you have no choice but to replace the motor if you want to keep the filter. In this situation just as in A2, it is usually better to just get a new filter system.
Q: My filter is leaking and I can't find any Orings for it. Now what?
A: We have no more Oring kits. These have been discontinued by the manufacturer, Mars Fishcare/API. Orings can be reconditioned by using Vaseline or a water based silicone grease which can be found in most hardware stores, home centers and auto parts stores.
A2: if your filter is an older model then replacing the motor and/or Quick Disconnect will get you all new seals/orings. Very expensive option when compared to purchasing a new filter from another maker. Some users choose this option for convenience. Also consider a used filter which can be found on some auction sites. Combine the parts into one filter that works.
Q: My filter is leaking around the quick disconnect and the water is coming out of the cord area.
A1: The quick disconnect is either broken or not sealing to the top of the motor. The easiest fix is to buy a new quick disconnect. We still have these in stock.
A2: If the QD seems OK then you can try wrapping plastic tape (plumbers tape) around the extensions on the bottom of the QD. First remove the orings carefully and wrap some tape around the area to increase slightly the diameter of each extension tube. The replace the orings. Coat them in grease (see above) and try again. This fixes many of the problems of a leaking QD.